Ah, Starbucks. Where would I be without you?

[Written on 7th July 2008]

Well, inside the serviced apartment, sitting on the bed watching the cleaner faff about, and lifting my feet when she runs the hoover round like you used to as a child, I imagine. Until she wants to make the bed that is. Then I suppose I’d have to move to the chair. Either that, or I might be in danger of being unceremoniously dumped onto the floor, just like in that episode of Sex and the City where the oriental housekeeper of one of Samantha’s guys doesn’t approve of his choice of ‘houseguest’.

So, to avoid the snooty little notes that come through the door if I permanently leave on the ‘Do Not Disturb’ sign – they go something along the lines of, “we were unable to service your room today due to your request for privacy,” (I can almost hear the sneer and the thoughts of ‘lazy cow’ from them) “call us immediately to arrange a time when we can come and snoop through your things,” – I take refuge in Starbucks.

It’s become a curious, yet necessary habit I’ve developed since being in this apartment, and that’s not to say it’s not without its perks. (And yes, ok, before you all email me in disgust calling me Pinocchio, I do admit to having a certain penchant for the green-and-white coffeehouse while still in England; but that was predominantly a ‘latte on the run’ thing, I rarely ever sat down there.)

The plus points undeniably start with the refreshments. I am a complete wuss when it comes to coffee, meaning it needs to be as weak as possible while still actually being coffee. (Though I am also a fan of hot milk – which is exactly what I was presented with in Italy when I ordered a latte. Note to self - 'latte' literally means milk, so you need to add the word caffe or the connoisseurs will think you're a weirdo.) After extensive research, I’ve discovered that Starbucks make the weakest, and therefore the tastiest, latte, so I’m happy to cough up my HK$31 (just over £2). There’s also a fairly decent selection of snacks on offer – much better than the bland choice of mainly cakes and sandwiches in England.

In the majority of the cafés, you’ll find there’s very handy access to free Wi-Fi, meaning if you’re on your own – as I often am – you can look marginally less pathetic and like a Norma-no-mates by aggressively bashing away at your laptop keyboard. I believe it is written, if not in the Bible, in some other weighty tome: the more aggressive the bashing = the more important, popular and therefore less pathetic you are. However, to my mild dismay, on one such ‘escape the cleaner’ mission last week, having lugged the laptop down there, I discovered that my local branch doesn’t actually offer this sneaky route onto the information superhighway. (Naturally I only discovered this after a good half an hour of trying and failing to gain access to any one of the 20 or so wi-fi networks detected in the area.) You’ll all be thrilled (and relieved, I'm sure) to know that when we’ve moved, my new local can wi-fi me up good. And yes, I did go onto Starbucks' Hong Kong website to find that out :-).

A minor point, but one that’s no less important, is that sitting here with a coffee means I look slightly like I have a purpose. There are a number of benches dotted around this shopping mall, but when I sat on one of those for an hour or so writing in a notebook (again, on a ‘oh, ok, I’ll go out, but only because I want you to change the bed and do the washing up’ excursion) all I got were stares and confused looks. Maybe they thought I was a spy taking notes on everyone. Hmm..maybe next time I’ll wear a beret. All female spies wear berets, don’t they? Or is that only 'la résistance’ agents, like Michelle from “’Allo ‘Allo!”?

And so, to the final advantage of visiting Starbucks, and my favourite one, which is the people-watching. There’s nothing better than free access to the multi-faceted cross section of society that are sat in a café at 3.15 in the afternoon.

There’s the group of WAGS who clearly have nothing in common except for the fact that they’ve all managed to reproduce – you can tell from the way they don’t actually talk to each other; they just thrust their offspring in each other’s faces like it’s some sort of competition. This group obviously has its downsides – like the ear-splitting screeching that was coming from one of the buggies just now – er, perhaps the child doesn’t like the fact that its buggy is covered with a blanket… (To prevent what? It seeing the new Fendi range and demanding one in every colour?)

Then you’ve got single males dotted around, ages range from 14 – 40, all with their eyes glued to the laptop screen in front of them. They’ve mostly been here so long the waitress has cleared the coffee cup away hours ago – they’re not even pretending to spend any money here. Sometimes they come in twos, but then you just have two laptops – they couldn’t possibly speak to each other – are you mad?!

Next there’s the couple sitting opposite each other who are just glumly staring off into space above each other’s heads. Can’t work out if this is post-argument silence or just boredom with each other’s company; either way, when some Starbucks dude comes round offering a free trial of a new blend of coffee, they literally both jump out of their chairs at the chance of alternative human interaction.

And finally there’s the girl, who, like yours truly, has papers spread across the table and is scribbling away, to all the world seeming like she has something pressing to write about.

Fortunately, never has the word ubiquitous been so appropriate than when it comes to describing Starbucks here in Honkers. Otherwise, quite frankly, that housemaid and I just might come to blows.


PS The picture was borrowed from a fellow blogger - apparently, at Starbucks, there's a secret, hidden fourth size of drink you can ask for called a 'short'. Even at the wise old age of 29, you learn something new every day...

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Sarah & Simon do the walk round Victoria Peak

[written on Wednesday 2nd July 2008]
So, as previously mentioned on this illustrious blog, before Simon took himself back to the country where he can officially earn some ‘decent’ money, we made the obligatory trip to the top of the Peak as I thought Simon would be impressed with the views and, more importantly, it could be done for free.

The Rough Guide to Hong Kong & Macau claims that, “Nearly everyone makes a circuit of The Peak…”, but although this was my third visit to the mountain, I’d walked further up it; and made it to a restaurant terrace for chilled beers and dim sum, but so far had not been around. And what a day to do it – sun was blazing, humidity was steaming and I’d already done a three-kilometre run in the gym that morning.
So when we headed off on the trail, I was thrilled to discover that the total walk would cover a distance of … three kilometres. Super. Still, it did promise views, firstly of the south side of Hong Kong island; coming round to Kowloon; and finally overlooking the Central district of the island. And fortunately for you good people, I remembered to take the camera this time. (Plus a large bottle of water!)

The pictures pretty much speak for themselves so I’ve listed them in chronological order – as we circumnavigated the Peak – with anything of interest pointed out.

A pretty waterfall cascading down to the right side of the path, underneath it…


…and further down below the left side of the path
Hmm…the best rooms with views? These buildings are on top of the peak, looking south

Looking towards the South side (Aberdeen and Repulse Bay in distance)

A close-up of the Pok Fu Lam Reservoir

(which used to be the island’s only supply of water; now it’s pumped from the mainland)

Important bridge that was supposed to be finished in June – I’m keeping a beady eye on its progress

Looking out north-west, towards Discovery Bay on Lantau Island

Looking over the harbour to Kowloon where we now live


The craziness that is the town planning of Mid-Levels & Central (as seen from above)


The Rough Guide to Hong Kong & Macau, Jules Brown & David Leffman, 2006 [Rough Guides]

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Mmmm....dim sum

[written on 1st July]

**Warning: post contains ramblings about meat dishes; non-meat eaters beware!**

You know when a restaurant is called what it serves, it's going to be good. Restaurant Owning, page one: "There's no need to spend hours coming u
p with a fancy name - call it after the cuisine, and they will come."

For those
of you who have wondered - I realise there are not many, so will keep it brief - the Cantonese phrase dim sum literally translates to “touch the heart”, which has been adopted to encompass the wide range of dishes on offer; yum cha which means “tea drinking” is the term used to describe the dining session.

Apparently, the tradition originated along the ancient Silk Road, where teahouses were built for the travellers or the local farmers needing somewhere to get some refreshment (and what better refreshment than a
lovely cuppa?) Once it was discovered that tea can also aid digestion, the teahouse owners started also serving snacks, and this has evolved into the current cuisine.

Anyways, there are endless advice forum postings on a website that's specifically for expats in Hong Kong (
http://hongkong.asiaxpat.com) that start along the lines of "best restaurant in Hong Kong", "my parents are coming to stay, where should I...?" and "dim sum - any recommendations?" and practically all of them, if you can be bothered reading through each pretty lame thread, eventually mention a place called 'Dim Sum' in Happy Valley. (Avid readers will remember the mention of Happy Valley on Day 2, when we saw some 'apartments' that can, at best, be described as the absolute opposite of 'des res'.)

Turns out there is one good reason to choose to live in one of these hell holes - the sweetest barbecued pork & duck buns you will ever taste. Not to mention the other 80-plus dumpling-based dishes on the menu. Though to be honest, I would much rather live elsewhere and make the fairly long journey - involving two lines of MTR and then a tram or bus and a 7-10 minute walk - to partake in the 'yum cha', and you are duly rewarded for your efforts the second you walk through the door by a frosty blast of full-force air con. Lastly, the biggest plus of it being slightly off the beaten track, is that it's not completely ramalamadingdong (or not 'overly busy' for people not au fait with that word!)

The more I read about this place on the advice forums (and in the Rough Guide, which though printed three years ago, recommended it even then), the more I started thinking about the restaur
ant Clifford had taken us to, and remembering how tasty it was. As it became apparent when we got there, it's the same place - what a good little orientation guide he was.

So in true 'kind sister showing her visiting brother a good time in Hong Kong' style, that's where we went for a slightly late lunch today, one of the seventeen bank holidays they have here; this one is to celebrate the handover of Hong Kong back to China. To his immense delight, that meant that Pies could join us. And man, did we take advantage of the extensive menu - eight dishes was possibly excessive for three people - especially as I wasn't massively hungry and Simon had had noodles little more than an hour previously - but we couldn't help ourselves!

True to form, (form that's based on only one previous visit, granted) Dim Sum was super sweet. From the meaty spring rolls, to the somewhat bizarre tasting meatballs, to the lobster & shrimp steamed dumplings, to the meat & vegetable buns, naturally not forgetting the aforementioned pork & duck buns - it was all very, very good. And in hindsight tasted even better, considering the bill was around HK$300 (£20) for the three of us!

So hopefully your mouths are duly watering by now; you can rest assured that if you're planning a visit in the time that we're out here, we will introduce you to the joyous wonder that is Dim Sum, the restaurant.

PS I've assumed that most people know what dim sum looks like, and therefore limited the number of pictures!

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Part Two: "It's always interesting..."

Turns out my fears were unfounded. Well, those specific fears were. Generally, in my experience, getting a phonecall before 7am isn’t ever a good thing, so when Colin passed me the phone at 6:17am, I was somewhat worried. As I’m sure you’ve guessed by now, it was Simon, calling from the airport. He’d been to check in for his flight, with plenty of time before it closed, right check-in desk and everything, but had encountered a slight problem. Along with his passport, he was asked to produce the credit card with which he had paid for the flight. Ah. Would that happen to be the Australian credit card that he had destroyed a mere day ago when he checked out of the hostel believing it was no longer required? Er, yes. That would be the one. And if you can’t produce that, there ain’t no way you’re getting on the flight. (And all week, Simon had been preparing the speech he was going to make to the check-in girl in the hopes that he could sweet talk her into upgrading him; ah, the irony.) She did attempt to console him by saying, “it’s ok, you can just pay for another flight and get this one reimbursed when you get back, as you won’t be using it, you should get almost a full refund” to which Simon replied “it’s not ok – I don’t have any money to pay for a new flight!”

So he, or rather we, had two options: I could either a) scoot on down to the airport and pay for a new flight on my credit card (which was fortunately in my purse, not the bin); the ‘helpful’ stewardess had discovered one leaving at 8:45am which Simon could get on in exchange for three hundred and fifty six of my English pounds, OR b) he could come back to town, I could pay for a hostel and we could sit it out until my parents transferred some emergency money (thus further delaying the day when Simon could get back into the world of employment and start paying people back).

I was dressed and out the door in 20 minutes.

In my haste to buy a ticket so that I could board the train that had already pulled into the station, however, I pressed the buttons too quickly and ended up with a single instead of a return. Hmm, real smooth. Funnily enough my brain isn’t really what you’d call functional at 6:45am, 28 minutes after I’d opened my eyes. Cursing myself all the way to the airport, and repeatedly counting the last coins in my purse, hoping that the seventeenth time I counted them they would add up to the amount required for another single ticket, I found Simon (looking very dapper in his ‘I’m-just-the-kind-of-sophisticated-guy-to-whom-you-want-to-give -an-upgrade’ custom-made suit, it has to be said) and we headed for the Air New Zealand check-in desks. As I thought they might, the oh-so-observant chaps at Air NZ pointed out that Simon didn’t have a ticket for their flight and his name was registered against a Singapore Airlines flight (though in Simon’s defense, the Singapore Airlines lady did tell him she’d reserved him a place and he should go and pay at check-in). Cue lots of explanation attempts to clarify why he couldn’t get on that flight, how she’d booked him on this one and we just needed to pay. Which they agreed with. But you can’t do that at check-in. Oh for God’s sake! So off we both hurried to the other end of the airport (time was beginning to tick by this point; the flight we needed to pay for only took off 45 minutes after the one Simon wasn’t allowed on…) and after more explaining and phonecalls to Singapore Airlines lady, I was finally able to hand over my plastic and pay to get Simon out of the country. Hurrah! Back to check-in, where they looked mildly surprised to see us – clearly the first time they thought we were crazy and that we wouldn’t be back (or maybe they just hoped…) – and then to the security door where I instructed Simon to “go straight to the gate – if you miss this flight because you’re buying a bottle of Hennessy in duty free, I am not coming back!” We’d already done the grand farewells the night before and were both pretty knackered not to mention hungover, so after some muted goodbyes, we went our separate ways.

And that’s where the fun part of my morning really began. Not being smart enough to buy a return ticket and not having enough money to buy another single for the Airport Express (‘the fastest way to and from the airport’ posters kept informing me – oh how right they turned out to be), I trudged towards a noticeboard headed ‘Buses from Chek Lap Kok Airport’. You’d think that the area of Kowloon being closer to the airport than Hong Kong island would mean that there would be a tidy little sum of buses all waiting, engines running, to take me back to my bed and some sweet blackout curtains. But no. The only bus I could find that looked promising (i.e. was going somewhere I recognised the name of) went to Island Harbourview, which is the complex across the road from our new apartment. Our new apartment for which we don’t yet have the keys – d’oh! Still, it was at least only one MTR stop away, that seemed good enough to me. Though it wasn’t seeming quite so good when I had to wait 20 minutes in the 30 degree heat for it to arrive and it was only 8am!

Simon had warned me after his jaunt on the airport bus the previous evening, that the bus would take about an hour – which I figured wasn’t too bad, I could just sit there and do some of that attractive public transport dozing, where you wake up to find you’ve drooled onto the person next to you – what I wasn’t prepared for was a journey of TWO HOURS AND TWENTY MINUTES just to get back to Olympic, from where I still had to get on the MTR and back up to the serviced apartment!! On the bright side, I did see a lot of Hong Kong (mainly the New Territories I have to say) but these are places I hadn’t even seen on the map, let alone planned to visit! Needless to say, there was copious amounts of sleeping on my agenda for the rest of that day.

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Part One: “It’s always interesting when Simon’s in town”

[Friday 4th July 2008]

Wise words spoken by the sage old guru that is Pies. Sim
on (eventually) left yesterday morning (oddly enough, not on the flight onto which he was actually booked, but more on that later) after flying in from Thailand for a 10-day visit on his way back to England after almost 11 months’ travelling.

It all began with me having to break the unfo
rtunate news that he wouldn’t be able to stay with us due to the lack of separate rooms at the serviced apartment place (you remember the glass-walled bathroom, I’m sure) so he tried to get in touch with another girl he knows who lives here. Which proved somewhat unsuccessful (and it then transpired that her flat had been rendered pretty much un-liveable by the torrential rain of June, so no go either way!)

Cue frantic text to me asking me to track down and book the cheapest hostel I could find for him and his ex-girlfriend (now friend) who was coming with him. Er, ok. Never booked a hostel in my life – can you really see me roughing it with a backpack?? – and don’t really know what to look for/not look for, but sure! Turns out h
ostels aren’t something they have a lot of here, but the ones they do don’t present themselves hugely well on the internet and are not really helped by the crazy conflicting reviews; i.e. some people would give a place 10/10 “best hostel ever”, while the same place would score 2/10 “only go here if you’re an entomologist and want to study the cockroaches” from someone else! Aaaarrrggghh! In the end I phoned a place that was in The Rough Guide, was HK$150 (£10) a night and hoped they’d be too tired to notice if it was dirty/noisy/had rodent neighbours.

They arrived, with far more luggage than I thought you’re supposed to have as a smelly, soap-dodging backpacker
(they had decided they were ‘flash’-packers instead, apparently) and I took them to Causeway Bay to the hostel. Which, apart from having no air con in the lifts, didn’t seem too shabby for a tenner each. I then proceeded to expose my severe lack of local geographical knowledge by leading them on a merry search for a pub called the Horse & Groom (looking back now, I’m not even sure what was so special about that particular pub...) We eventually happened upon said drinking establishment amidst an unnecessary amount of flashing pink neon, opposite a place called ‘Coyote’s’ and was nearly the only shopfront not promising ‘model dancers’. Whether they were models who danced or t’other way round, I will of course make a special trip back there to discover; I don’t want it to keep you awake at night.

Beers duly ordered, we caught up for an hour or so, by which time the two of them looked like they might just sleep in the bar if we didn’t make a move. And all went smoothly for two days (hostel wasn’t terrible, and Simon managed to get them a couple of Oct
opuses so they could negotiate the MTR over to our apartment to use the free internet – free because it’s in our apartment and Lehman are footing the rent bill!) Smoothly until the ex-girlfriend didn’t want to come and look at flats with me (which is perfectly fine – unless you’re nosy [like me] there’s nothing worse than trawling round houses for rent/sale especially when they’re not even for you).

Simon,
on the other hand, is very nosy, so they made plans for her to join us later, after we’d met Brian, my fourth real estate ‘friend’, and his three real estate friends (not entirely sure why they were all needed; including Simon and me, there were six of us cramming into the tiny lifts and filing into apartments). I just lapped it up and enjoyed pretending to be J-Lo/Mariah for an hour or two, with my own entourage…

My little brother was somewhat short on cash (to anyone that knows Simon, this will come as no great surprise) as he was nearing the end of
his travels, so I suggested I make some pasta for dinner instead of eating out again. Unfortunately when Simon texted this to the ex, a slight misunderstanding came to light: she thought they’d already arranged to go for pizza and so wasn’t really interested in home-made pasta. She said she’d go to the cinema, would see Simon after dinner and all was well.

Or so we thought. Simon got back to the hostel at about half ten and
she wasn’t there. Nor was she there at midnight (which is quite unusual for her and she’s not a big drinker). By 1:15am Simon was beginning to worry as she wasn’t responding to his texts or subsequent phonecalls. Having called the police (and been told you have to wait 24 hours before filing a missing person report) he texted her parents to check if they’d heard from her and at 1:40am, he called Colin and I. (I think there was some growling when Colin picked up the phone.) I also forgot to mention that this was the day that Typhoon Signal 8 was raised for the first time – i.e. probably best not to be outside; otherwise the panic level would probably have been lower.

When I phoned Simon back to tell him where
the nearest police station and hospital were, it transpired that finally, she had arrived back, unharmed and asking why she’d had texts from both her parents asking if she was OK. Turned out that after the cinema, she’d gone for pizza with a couple of people from the hostel and didn’t see what the fuss was about.

The typhoon pretty much scuppered any ou
tdoor plans we had for the next four/five days (which typically, are the cheapest kind of plans) and also meant that repeated attempts to go to HK Disneyland by the two of them were also thwarted, but we did manage to find IKEA (hurrah!) and go out drinking on the Friday night. Which was also the night that Colin lost his iPhone. Which wasn’t actually Simon’s fault (thankfully!), but just happened while he was here!

So the days were filled with window shopping excursions in a variety of malls across Hong Kong island and Kowloon, a lot of ‘buying-one-coffee-and-making-it-last’including discoveringCharlie Brown’s Café’ in Tsim Sha Tsui – and a 3-kilometre walk around the Peak. In 35° heat and 85% humidity. Well, I couldn’t not show him any sights! (More on this with lots of pictures to come in a separate blog.)

Then there were a few drinks and a tasty cigar (for Simon rather than me) on his last night, and before I knew it we were saying our farewells at the airport bus stop. (Not wanting to waste any further money on a hostel bed that he’d have to vacate at 4:30/5am to check-in for his 8am flight, Simon had decided to pass the hours between two and six in the airport so as to have an extra $150 to spend on beer. My brother, ladies and gentlemen.) I, on the other hand, had to run extremely fast after hearing them announce the last tube was about to leave, got home and then fell asleep hoping Simon wouldn’t pass out somewhere and miss his flight.

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YAY! We've finally found a flat!

[Friday 29th June 2008]

After 73 viewings, in five different residential areas, covering three separate land masses, we have at last put in, and had accepted, an offer on a two-bedroomed apartment in both our preferred area and our favourite development. Phew.

Ok, so 73 is a bit of an exaggeration, I've actually only been to 45 viewings (Pies has been to seven) but it feels like a whole lot more! I don’t think I’ve ever really flat-hunted before when I have no real idea whether I even like the area; when an Australian guy I used to work with was in the same situation, he gave me a map of London and said cross off anywhere I should definitely not consider - I could have done with the same here! Mind you, the majority of expats here only really seem concerned with living on Hong Kong island – so much so that the The Complete Residents’ Guide doesn’t spend any time at all giving you the lowdown on living in Kowloon – on your own there, Packer!

I think the reason it’s been that little bit more stressful over here, apart from the obvious reasons of being in a new country, not yet having got to grips with the exchange rate and trying to speak to estate agents with varying degrees of English proficiency, is that house hunting is quite different to looking for a home in London, or even England. I think I’ve sussed out the main points of note, so bear with me while I share them with you.

  • Square footage and ‘efficiency’
So generally, when you’re looking for a house to rent, or buy for that matter, your main concern is how many bedrooms the place has as this determines how big you can expect it to be. Period features, outside space and a large family kitchen, they’re generally on the second line of your requirements because although they will have a large influence on whether you say yes or no, you need to make sure you have the sleeping area sorted in the first place.
Not so in Honkers. Here the number one question is what size, in terms of square footage, are you looking for? To which my initial answer was “er, who’s that and the what now?” With no frame of reference it’s quite tough to have any idea how many foots, square or otherwise, are required. As you can imagine, space being the premium commodity that it is here, some places are absolutely tiny – they give the category ‘studio’ a whole new meaning. So obviously they were out. But as we discovered on that fateful first trip to Happy Valley, more square feet does not necessarily equal bigger apartment. No sirree.
For a start they have this thing here called ‘efficiency’, which Colin and I whisperingly questioned amongst ourselves as to whether this referred to how energy efficient an apartment is. Wrong again. When an agency or landlord tells you about the apartment they are trying to flog to you, they might mention that it is 65% efficient. Turns out this actually means the percentage of the flat that you can actually use as living space. Or more specifically, the percentage of the building complex that you can actually call yours. It is perfectly legal, and therefore happens often, to detail an apartment as being say, 700 square feet, when included in that number is the lobby, lift shaft, hallways, gym, pool and anything else that’s actually communal and not inside the apartment walls. Meaning that you’re actually left with approx. 350 square feet in which to reside. Unless you plan to take a sleeping bag down to the reception area or put up a tent in the gym. So I learned pretty soon to wait and see what size was actually on offer after stepping over the apartment threshold rather than getting excited at the prospect of 1000 square feet that the viewing information details.
  • Location vs. transport
It’s funny how quickly you adjust. Within a week or so of us being located at Kowloon station – one stop from Central and Colin’s office - where 95% of all necessary journeys take five to seven minutes from A to B, I was ready to discount any locations that had the audacity to triple or, dear god, quadruple that figure. A twenty-minute commute? Pfft. You must be joking. (Even though back in London, I can say with a great degree of confidence, that both Colin and I would have killed a small child to get away with that short a journey into work.)
Here, it’s not just about Colin’s work location, Central’s pretty much where it all goes on – shopping, bars, restaurants, etc.; where all modes of transport come together: buses to pretty much anywhere, trams, ferries to all the islands, three lines of the MTR, the Peak tram, a ton of taxis and even a helicopter (though I don’t think that’s for public use…); and various other facilities that I’ve yet to discover. So while I thought it was going to be a case of picking a location for it’s amenities, decent apartments, affordable rents and lack of crack dens, it’s actually the other way round; ascertain what transport there is and that ticks the right box, decide whether you like the area/flats/rental costs.
The MTR is nearly always the quickest way to get anywhere, and while not necessarily the absolute cheapest option, a single fare rarely hits the HK$15 mark (~£1), the average being around HK$9 (~60p) which, compared to the £4 Ken Livingstone robs you of for a single fare on the Tube, can’t really be sniffed at.
Unfortunately, as the MTR is still relatively new (33 years old to the Tube’s 145), it is yet to become ‘whole city-covering’ so there are quire a few places it doesn’t actually serve or that would necessitate an overly complicated journey. For example, it doesn’t cover the south side of the island where there are a number of residential areas – not to mention beaches! So that was immediately off the list of possibilities, because while Colin could get a bus or taxi to work each day, the traffic would mean it could take anywhere between 30 and 60 minutes. And Colin likes sleeping. A lot.
Then there are some areas of Kowloon which could have met our price and size requirements, but while the MTR does have stops out there, you would have to change at least once, but probably twice to get to Central. And when you’re sometimes working from 7am to 9pm, the last thing you want to be doing is faffing on and off trains.
‘D-Bay’, as previously described (in more detail than you probably needed, apologies), is only accessible by ferry – well, actually you could spend 40 minutes on the MTR and then get a bus there, but you get my point. And let’s face it; far too many Americans and children.
The Rough Guide to Hong Kong and Macau does list “rid[ing] a rattling old-fashioned tram between the modern high rises lining HK Island’s north shore” as one of its “23 things not to miss”, but I have a feeling Pies might have something ever so slightly disparaging to say if I suggested he “rattle” twice a day to and from work. As this is currently the primary form of transport from Kennedy Town (getting the MTR in 2013/14) that was crossed off the list too.
So you can see why directly-reached Olympic started to look mighty attractive with a journey time (in air-conditioned loveliness) of just seven minutes.
  • Price doesn’t necessarily correlate to size
The one overriding thing I’ve found difficult to get my head around, even after I’d a) got the square footage thing, b) made my peace with the gross v net efficiency bit, and c) determined it’s all about transport, transport, transport, is that: more money does not a bigger apartment get. On one trip to Olympic with Simon, we saw a development called Harbour Green which was very swanky and all apartments had balconies but the bedrooms were just not worth the effort. We walked over to the other side of the station complex to The Long Beach to find much more space, better views, complete with similar, if not better facilities (gym, pool, etc.), and all for HK$5-6,000 (£350-400) less a month. Which, as Simon helpfully pointed out, “is crazy!” The estate agent just shrugged and said “different developer”. And apparently, even after that, it’s down to what the landlord is prepared to let you have it for. Sheesh. Thank goodness for the ability to negotiate down!
  • Two year lease
Again I was hit by the ‘different country, different rules’ realisation: be really, really sure that you like the apartment you’re signing up to, because you’re in it for the long term. Rental contracts here run for two years, and that’s standard. Apparently, after a year you or the landlord are able to give two months’ notice, but that’s still 14 months that you’re tied to a place. For someone like me with a very short attention span who gets bored easily, that’s quite a scary thought!
Plus the monetary constraints (obviously more of a concern for Pies, but still): you have to stump up two months’ rent as a deposit, another month’s rent as a retainer – so the landlord doesn’t rent it to someone else under your nose – stamp duty (I think that’s about 5% of the yearly rent split between you and the landlord), and agency fees, which vary, but are usually about 50% of the monthly rental amount. So, for a HK$20k (~£1,300) a month apartment, you’re looking at HK$76,000 (~£5,000) up front. Welcome to Honkers!

After the twenty-third unsuccessful viewing, I was beginning to feel the pressure a tiny bit. Was the flat that we were happy to commit all that time to and pay all that money for really out there? (Apologies to you grammar fans out there, I know I’ve carried out the ultimate sin there by ending on a preposition not just once, but twice – but the sentence got very complicated if I didn’t!)

Well, if you’ve been paying any attention to this blog posting – just the title would suffice – you’ll know that the answer is yes. We get the keys in two weeks’ time; photos to follow very soon.

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About Me

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aka Sarah and Colin - the Hong Kong years. Colin transferred in June 2008 with work; Sarah couldn't face life without him...or wanted a free trip to Hong Kong..whatever. Any thoughts on this blog are predominantly written by Packer, but look out for special guest editions from Pies.

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